On Friday night after our knifing class, we stopped by the Kogi truck on Cloverdale and Wilshire in Miracle Mile for a quick bite on our way home. Who should we bump into, but the reigning king of tacos himself, Jimmy Shaw and a friend. (Jimmy is the chef/owner of Loteria, which is hands down the best Mexican food in Los Angeles.) So given all the crazy amounts of national and even international press the Kogi truck has been getting—Newsweek, NPR, FT, you name it—we were all curious to if these Korean-style tacos could possibly live up to the hype. Jimmy ordered one of each taco (Korean short ribs, spicy pork, BBQ chicken, tofu), while we loaded up on Korean short rib tacos, one tofu taco, and then a kimchi quesadilla, which the four of us shared.
The Korean short ribs are hands down the way to go. They’re topped with sesame-chile salsa roja, cabbage in a very vinegary chile soy sauce, cilantro and sea salt. The tofu is a complete waste of time. I was most excited to taste the kimchi quesadilla, which is why it was what was most disappointing. It’s made with what tastes like Velveeta. I’m guessing on that because I’ve never had Velveeta, but whatever it was, it wasn’t good. But I like the direction it was going and I LOVE kimchi, so I might try to replicate at home with better cheese.
It was interesting to note the crowd – a lot of Louis Vuitton and logo-ed Coach bags and multiple sightings of Tory Burch ballet flats (the kiss of death to any hipster credibility this gig is trying to hold onto). In the meantime, yes, you should by all means to try to intercept one of the Koji trucks via Twitter while it’s hot, or go check them out at the Alibi after 6pm. Or, do what we will be doing next time, and head straight to Loteria.