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Posts Tagged ‘Nancy Silverton’

Cookie Monsters

In Food on December 21, 2009 at 9:35 am

Several of the “girls” on our block decided to do a holiday cookie exchange last night. There were wedding cookies, sugar cookies, rice krispie treats and more—all of them delicious and baked with love. And there were flutes of bubbly, which were enjoyed with much love indeed! I don’t think any of my neighbors would begrudge me—or disagree—for saying that Debra’s cookies completely stole the show. Debra kindly shared links for recipes she used, which I’m sharing with you. The above Rosemary Pine Nut cookie is from a recipe by Nancy Silverton Dahlia Narvaez of Mozza. I don’t think I’ve ever tasted a cookie so perfect. And the below Chocolate Sea Salt (which will blow your mind) is from a Pierre Herme recipe. And look at how perfectly ROUND Debra’s cookies are. That’s a talent in itself.

And what did The Foodinista bake? I cheated. And you would, too, if your sister baked as well as mine. Claire made these heavenly Triple Chocolate Cranberry Oatmeal cookies, which I took to the party, but in a moment of conscience gave credit where credit was due.

Good to the last bite…

Long-Cooked Broccoli

In Food, Recipes on April 19, 2009 at 11:11 am

eggbroccolisandwich

A couple months ago, I was at a friend’s birthday party with beautiful slow-cooked vegetables and beautiful people. The birthday girl, Carolynn, is an amazing cook and has a way with vegetables. Among the many platters of gorgeous produce offerings procured from Chino Farm was an INSANELY good dish of long-cooked broccoli. I’d never had anything like it—sweet, earthy, nutty and decadent all at the same time. It’s a dish Carolynn learned from Nancy Silverton, who features the method in a recipe for Soft-Scrambled Eggs, Long-Cooked Broccoli, and Feta Cheese in her eponymous sandwich book.

Last night, I decided to try it out with two heads of broccoli. I figured with that kind of time commitment, we should get at least a couple meals out of it. All in all, it takes about 2 hours to stew the broccoli with onions and garlic. Once it was finished, we grilled up some heritage pork chops and enjoyed with half of the long-cooked broccoli. 

pork

Then this morning we walked over to Larchmont Farmers Market to get some whole grain bread from La Boulangerie, and some farm-fresh eggs and chives to make the best breakfast sandwich I’ve tasted. EVER.

chives

For the sandwich, we grilled two pieces of bread doused with olive oil in a panini press, soft scrambled 6 eggs, and then assembled with broccoli, topped with scrambled eggs, topped with crumbled feta, chopped chives and cracked black pepper. We had plenty of leftover broccoli for three sandwiches (Mr. Foodinista polished off a second). We are already planning our next rendezvous with the long-cooked broccoli.

LONG-COOKED BROCCOLI

Adapted from Nancy Silverton’s Sandwich Book

2 heads broccoli

1/4 cup, plus 2 teaspoons, kosher salt, divided

4 garlic cloves, peeled and thinly sliced

1 small yellow onion, peeled and thinly sliced

1/2 cup, plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 whole dried red chile

Cut the head of broccoli off the stalk, leaving about 1 inch of the stalk still attached. Slice outer layer of fibrous peel off main stalk, and cut it vertically into long, flat slices, about 1/4-inch thick and 1-inch wide. Slice all the way through broccoli florets, cutting it vertically into 1-inch-thick pieces. You should have a bunch of long pieces of broccoli. 

In a large pot, bring 8 cups of water and 1/4 cup salt to boil. Cook all of cut-up broccoli in water for 2 minutes, until broccoli turns bright green. Drain broccoli and place in large bowl of ice water to chill. Drain well, and pat dry with kitchen towel.

broccolitowel

In a large, heavy skillet, combine broccoli, onion, garlic, chile, olive oil and 2 teaspoons salt. (We didn’t have any large dried chiles on hand, so I threw in a couple of chiles de arbol instead.) Over very low heat, cook broccoli, stirring occasionally, for 1 1/2 to 2 hours, until it’s very soft and tender. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

cookingbroccoli

Ladies Lunch: Pizzeria Mozza

In Food, On Location: Out and About in L.A. on March 10, 2009 at 6:20 pm

pizza

If you are looking to find the foodiest dental hygienist in the city with the best restaurant recommendations (globally), immediately book in with Bonnie at the wonderful Dr. Sobelman’s office on Wilshire and La Cienega. Several years ago for a trip to Barcelona, a friend gave me a list of recommendations from Gourmet columnist Colman Andrews (and author of Catalan Cuisine) and I got one from Bonnie, and guess what? They were pretty much identical.

Today I met Bonnie and her foodie friend Tracy from London, and we had, predictably, a fantastic lunch at Pizzeria Mozza. As always, the service was exceptional. We ordered a few greatest hits, like the chicken liver bruschetta (my absolute favorite!), fried squash blossoms, tricolore salad, the egg and guanciale pizza with radicchio and bagna cauda, and then tried another with Coach Farm goat cheese and leeks. For dessert they enjoyed the divine butterscotch budino (which I had to sit out since I gave up dessert for lent), while I enjoyed a glimpse of an old TV fave—Don Johnson and his lovely wife, Kelley Phleger, eating lunch at the bar. Here are my two must-orders on the menu (though when available, the littleneck clam  or wild nettle pizzas are right up there):

chicken liveregg

Embarrassment of Riches

In Drink, Food, Recipes on February 25, 2009 at 8:05 am

porkchop

Apparently not every guest at Carolynn’s birthday party made out with as much Chino Farm loot as yours truly. (My apologies to Mike K.) Last night I took a page out of Carolynn’s book, literally, and made an incredible Currant-Pine Nut Relish from the cookbook she co-wrote with Nancy Silverton, A Twist of the Wrist. Carolynn had served this the other night with roasted cauliflower. I wanted to do the same with some of the beautiful little cauliflowers and carrots I scored, and spoon the rest over pork chops. So I grabbed a bunch of purple carrots and a couple baby heads of cauliflower from my haul, tossed them in olive oil, sea salt and pepper and then roasted them in the oven. Meanwhile, I heated up balsamic vinegar, currants, chopped shallots, garlic, arbol chile, a rosemary sprig and kosher salt, and then simmered for about 10 minutes.

relish

Then I tossed in some toasted pine nuts and a little olive oil and simmered for another 30 seconds or so to blend the flavors. In a heavy skillet, I heated a couple tablespoons of vegetable oil over high heat and browned the pork chops for several minutes a side. I transferred them to a roasting dish, and put them in the oven to finish roasting along with the carrots and cauliflower. I cracked open a bottle of fruity and earthy Rioja, but cut my thumb on the very sharp foil, which necessitated a ninja band-aid:

riojaninja

Boo-boo notwithstanding, dinner was incredible! The husband went crazy for the veggies and the pine nut relish. I’m going to share this wonderful recipe from Twist of the Wrist, if only to give you a taste of how great this cookbook is. I cooked out of it all last summer, and highly recommend it.

twist

Currant-Pine Nut Relish

Adapted from A Twist of the Wrist, by Nancy Silverton with Carolynn Carreño

1/4 cup pine nuts, toasted

1/2 cup balsamic vinegar

1/2 cups dried currants

1/2 cup finely chopped shallots (or red onion)

4 large garlic cloves, grated or minced

1 dried arbol chile

2 fresh rosemary sprigs

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Combine vinegar, currants, shallots, garlic, arbol chile, rosemary and salt in a small saucepan over high heat, and bring to a simmer. Reduce heat to medium-low and continue simmering, stirring occasionally, for about 10 minutes until it forms a thick and syrupy glaze. Stir in toasted pine nuts and olive oil and simmer for another 30 seconds to infuse flavors.

Six Degrees of Nancy Silverton

In Food on February 7, 2009 at 11:50 pm

Alex Gallardo / Los Angeles Times

Alex Gallardo / Los Angeles Times

Earlier today I got a facebook invitation to join a group called Send a Buck to Kevin Bacon, the premise being that each member would send $1 to Kevin Bacon care of his agent at the William Morris Agency to help him recoup substantial losses from the Bernie Madoff Ponzi scheme. For my money, I’d rather send my buck to Nancy Silverton, who lost her entire life savings—including her profits from the sale of La Brea Bakery—in the fiasco. EVERYTHING. She has kids to put through school, and it’s not like restaurants are exactly raking it in in this economy. Can you imagine??? I have enormous respect for her for being so forthcoming about the ordeal in this Los Angeles Times story, and also for being grace under pressure personified. Always. (Plus, can you stand how CHIC she is in this photograph????) Which is why on our next date night or date afternoon, my husband and I are getting a sitter for Tiny G and heading over to Pizzeria Mozza to do our part. Starting with the chicken liver bruschetta, moving right into the egg, guanciale, radicchio, escarole & bagna cauda pizza with a tricolore salad on the side and a quartino of Barbera d’Alba, and ending emphatically with the butterscotch budino.

Autostrada Sandwich

In Food, On Location: Out and About in L.A. on January 18, 2009 at 6:02 pm

autostrada

Locals have long known about Campanile’s Grilled Cheese Night each Thursday. Some of the greatest hits from the menu are available next door at La Brea Bakery all week long, like the divine “Autostrada” sandwich. It’s La Brea Bakery founder and Mozza co-owner (as well as Campanile owner Mark Peel’s ex-wife) Nancy Silverton’s riff on a panini she once had at a truck stop on an Italian road trip. Loaded with provolone, soprasetta, mortadella, coppa and slices of marinated cherry peppers and grilled between two slices of sourdough bread, it elevates the humble ham and cheese to otherworldy heights. You could make your own (click here for recipe), but why?

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